Scotland Day 3 - A spot on forecast, a horrible start, but what a stunning finish to the day!!!!.

I woke at 6.45 with my alarm, it is the time I usually set when I am at work and thought I might as well keep it, my way of thinking is that if it is a nice day then I can get up early and take advantage, however if it is not so good like this morning I can look out the window or tent and then turn over for another hour or so, and this is what I did this morning, finally getting out of bed at 8.15 packed my stuff up had a quick shower and shave then down for breakfast. As you can see from the photo, there was nothing to race for, however the forecast said it was going to get better. At a quick stop at the Bank in Dunoon it was off on my way, before turning off to and head over the hills through the very woody part, I was amazed by the amount of Forestry Commission land around these parts and they are managed on an industrial scale with massive one man, tracked machines, that not only cut down the trees, they trim them, cut them to the right lengths then load them onto a trailer they are towing behind.Half way along this section I came to the head of Loch Slieven, with the mist and rain that had been following me, now creating this eerie sight as it now presented this thick wall of mist, luckily I wasn’t going back down it straight away.

My immediate route was to take me down to the A84 and turn left through St Catherines and then onto towards the Colintraive to get the ferry over to the Isle of Bute, my first Island on this Scottish leg, it was a great piece of road with wonderful swooping bends that I could just relax and let the bike do it’s own thing almost, with just small amounts of reverse steering, ( a simple technique) rather than pulling the left handlebar towards you as you go into the bend, you actually give it a little push away, which means the front wheel starts to go to the right and the bike then falls to the left and you are into the perfect lean into the bend, then you then balance the amount of lean with the throttle, in fact you can up to a point lean the bike further the more throttle you apply, a simple matter of centrifugal force. Science lesson over - back to the ride.

About 100yds further on I spotted a grey seal basking on top of a rock, unfortunately by the time I was able to turn around an come back he had moved off, luckily the second time I spotted a seal doing this I didn’t miss out.

On arriving on Bute the road down to Port Bannatyne is not only lovely it is also very picturesque and offered me a view of the RFA ship I had got close to yesterday but too close to photograph if you know what I mean. RFA Orangeleaf, which is a fleet refueling tanker and from this picture you can just make out the giant fuel tanks hidden in the hillside just to it’s right, you can also see the 4 container ships, moored up from another angle.Sorry you can’t really see The Orangeleaf well but she is a 40,000+tonne tanker that was originally a commercial tanker that was subsequently converted in 1984 for fleet refueling. Along with her sister ship the RFA Bayleaf they were both built at Cammell Laird shipyard in Birkenhead. By the way the two images were taken a short time apart and it was amazing how the day was clearing up.

Carrying on as I came to Rothesay I was able to see Rothesay Castle (48) the castle has been described as "one of the most remarkable in Scotland", for its long history dating back to the beginning of the 13th century, and its unusual circular plan.

The castle comprises a huge curtain wall, strengthened by four round towers, together with a 16th century forework, the whole surrounded by a broad moat. Built by the Stewart family, it survived Norse attacks to become a royal residence. Though falling into ruin after the 17th century, the castle was repaired by the Marquess of Bute before passing into state care last century. During the Wars of Scottish Independence, Rothesay was held by the English, but was taken by Robert the Bruce in 1311. It then returned to English hands in 1334, before being taken again by the Scots. Following the accession of the Stewarts to the throne of Scotland in 1371, the castle became a favourite residence of kings Robert II and Robert III, who died here in 1406. Robert II granted the hereditary keepership of the castle to his son John, ancestor of the Earls and Marquesses of Bute. Robert III made his eldest son David Duke of Rothesay in 1401, beginning a tradition of honouring the heir to the throne of Scotland with this title. In 1462 the castle survived a siege by the forces of John of Islay, Earl of Ross and the last Lord of the Isles.

Rothesay was garrisoned for the Royalists during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms, then for the occupying forces of Oliver Cromwell, who invaded Scotland with his New Model Army in the early 1650s. On their departure in 1660, the troops partially dismantled the structure. What was left was burned by the supporters of Archibald Campbell, 9th Earl of Argyll during his rising of 1685, in support of the Monmouth Rebellion against James VII.

Following a long period of neglect, the 2nd Marquess of Bute employed 70 men to excavate the ruins, clearing large amounts of rubbish from the castle in 1816-17. But it was not until the 1870s that the ruins were stabilised. The 3rd Marquess, a keen restorer of historic buildings, embarked upon a series of repairs and restorations, following surveys and advice from his regular architect William Burges. His "restorations" continued until 1900, and include the clearing and shaping of the moat, as well as the red sandstone additions to the forework, which reinstated the hall roof while significantly altering the character of the building. In 1961 Rothesay Castle was gifted to the state, and is now a Scheduled Ancient Monument, in the care of Historic Scotland.

After touring around Rothesay, which struck me as cross between a commercial seaside town and a county town, as if it couldn’t make up it’s mind what it wanted to be, that or it was playing both sides to ensure economic survival. It was then along the A844 for a while before turning off on the only back lane I would take around the coast on Bute, past Piperhall and then on to Kingarth then past the Golf Course before the next photo overlooking Arran, just as I entered Kerrymenoch. Okay it was an A road again but it was still tight for two cars to pass each other.I have been wondering what my challenge for next year would be and now I think I have it.!
My son has asked me whether we can go camping next year and play some links courses, he suggested Cornwall, while there is no slight meant in this comment, however if you want to play links golf, the only place is Scotland and I don’t mean the big name courses. For example The Isle of Bute is host to 3 courses alone all of which can be described as links style golf. I have played on a number of courses in Scotland and village 9 hole courses are as good as anything you will find, they usually don’t have pro-shops etc. just an honesty box for you to put your green fees in. So the plan next year is to play on two of these courses each day for 5 days and write about them and rank them.

One course that doesn’t count that I have played is Lochmaben, focused around the (Clubhouse) village hall it was a stunning 9 hole course that dated back nearly 100 years that was compromised when they added a further 9 holes, okay I played it 10 years ago and it may have changed but the original 9 hole were stunning.

Although it was meant to be an A road it was very tight and I was met with a family out for a cycle ride and a car coming the opposite way, great just what I needed, the problem being the female cyclist wouldn’t get out of the middle of the road, the children, the father all got out of the way, in the end we all got held up, the car couldn’t pass, because she would stop, I couldn’t pass because she was in the middle of the road, in the end the husband had to shout at her to stop and pull over. I honestly don’t know whether she was ignorant to what was going on around her or she was just being bloody minded, however in the end she had hacked me off but more importantly one of the locals. I just don’t get it. I was in London today walking around The City on business, but the last thing you should do is walk across a pedestrian crossing on Green unless you have double checked each way then checked your health insurance. Bloody Cyclists!, even today I had to pull back twice. Why is it these so called Green Anarchists believe they are a law to themselves and they don’t have to obey traffic signals like the rest of road users. I think I have told the story of when I almost got in a fight with a cycle courier who went across a traffic signal and rode straight into me and then argued that I wasn’t looking what I was doing. The crossing was on green and he was on red, so when he threatened me I was close to punching his lights out.

Anyway after finally getting going again, it was up to a viewing point at Quien Hill to take another photo over towards Kintyre taking in Inchmarnock in the near distance.

The day was really turning out to be a revelation, the weather, the scenery, the people and the roads, Today I really had some serious fun, long may it continue.

Coming back onto the roads that had lead me to Port Bannatyne I quickly turned left to go back towards the ferry over to Colintrave where I took the following photo of the ferry, the sister ship to which I would meet later in my travels. I pulled up alongside another biker near the front of the queue, sorry those car drivers I overtook but usually ferry companies put two bikes in the space of one car, so the fact I jumped the queue didn’t hinder anyone, if anything it helped people out.

The ferry at this point is the Loch Dunveggan and it is said for the distance it covers across the narrows it is the most expensive form of transport available. More expensive than Concorde on a cost per mile basis, it cost me and the bike costing me £9.20 for the return journey of a few hundred yards in each direction. To give an example I used one of the Highlands Ferries a little later at Corran and that cost me just £1.90 for a single.

Back on the Ferry despite the shortness of the trip I ran up the ladder to take a photo of the crossing point, looking up the Kyles of Bute, I only had time to take one before I had to run back down and put my helmet back on and get sorted out on the bike, because I would be let off first.

Back on the mainland it was back on to the A886 for a short while before taking the more coastal road of the B886 and a tough piece of riding that turned out to be as it was yet another stretch of road that has been tarred and chipped and very recently as the everytime I came to a corner either the front or rear wheel would skid, either under braking or accelerating, this made me ultra cautious and therefore it took me a long time to get back to A 886 after a quick 5-6 mile run along the Loch.

Once I reached Ormidale I was turning back on myself along the other side of the Loch on the A8003 this steeply climbing road produced a wonderful sight at the viewing point just after Craig Cottage. This point had one of those metal panorama signs that highlight all the peaks and points of interest for miles around.

Right the way down the Kyles of Bute, although it cannot be really seen from this photo but right in the middle literally is the Loch Dunveggan, the ferry I had returned from Bute on less than an hour ago, once more on the Bute side. Looking back at the bike I was able to view some of the mountains back towards ‘Rest and be Thankful’ that I had crossed yesterday and I would pass close by once again this afternoon.The next hour or so was spent negotiating some very tight and narrow roads, after leaving the A road at Tighnabruaich it was on to Kames then down along a track to Ardlamount House and coming back up to Millhouse before getting back on to the B8000. The road at this section wasn’t too bad in fact it was one of those sections that was one and a half tracks wide so in most cases when cars coming in the opposite direction used their brains it was easy for both of us to pass each other just by slowing down or speeding up rather than stopping completely in one of the ‘passing places’.

However after passing through Drum and just before Kilfinan I was passing through part of the Estate owned by Otter Farms, when I abused all my rules about stopping in passing places, to take some time and a number of photos as I watched a couple of Scottish Black Angus Cows giving birth in a field. I missed the first calf by about 20 mins, by the looks of things as it was on it’s feet and suckling however I didn’t miss the second within minutes the mother was mooing away and licking the calf trying to get it to stand. I stayed around for as long as I could and the second calf was very close to standing before I got under way, I won’t bore you with all the stages, I’ll just post the last one I took. The mother is the one on the left, however the one on the right was very protective almost like an Auntie and was trying to help it get on the feet as well.

A little further up the road I came to Otter Ferry and no sign of a ferry which made me think. So I did some research; Otter Ferry lies on the eastern shore of Loch Fyne, and was once connected to the western shore of the loch at West Otter Ferry by a ferry which began operating some time in the late 1700s, and only ceased operation in 1948. Operating from a jetty and quay built by James Campbell in the late 1700s, the mile and a half crossing provided an alternative to the long trek around the north end of the loch. In 1791 the fare was 3d for a man and 9d for a horse.On the road to Strachur I did pass a historic site although on first sight it didn’t seem that much, yet again it was another Castle number (49) Strathlachlan is the home to the Clan Maclachlan; Euan Maclachlan of Maclachlan is the 25th Clan Chief. Old Castle Lachlan was built at the beginning of the fourteenth century about the time of the Battle of Bannockburn.

It remained the home of the Maclachlan of Maclachlan until it was bombarded from the sea in 1746 by an English warship following the defeat of the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden. This was retribution against the Maclachlans for joining in the unsuccessful rebellion. Lachlan Maclachlan, the Chief, ADC to Bonnie Prince Charlie was killed in the battle.The New Castle started life as a Queen Anne style house at the end of the eighteenth century. At the end of the nineteenth the Scottish baronial transformation was undertaken. Now the whole house can be booked for either weddings or special events, the only warning it is not cheap but it could be very, very special.

I was pushing on at pace, as I was starting to feel it, my backside was aching, however the weather was getting better all the time. And it was becoming a real pleasure to ride, this said I had set myself a target of getting on to Arran tonight, and finding somewhere to stay, if I was to achieve this I needed to get a wiggle on.

It was then on to the A886 and then again on to the A815 for the run up to St Catherines and Ardno before joining the A83 and the quick turn around the head of the Loch to be almost stopped in my tracks by a relatively massive Oyster Restaurant selling Loch Fyne Oysters which to be honest are famous the world around. I wasn’t hanging around and I was shortly in Inverary where you cannot avoid the sight of the Castle (50) The initial design for the castle was made in 1720 by the architect Sir John Vanbrugh, who also designed Blenheim Palace. This design was later developed by the architects Roger Morris and William Adam, who oversaw the beginning of the castle's construction in 1746, commissioned by Archibald Campbell, 3rd Duke of Argyll. It was completed in 1789 for John Campbell, 5th Duke of Argyll and his wife, Elizabeth. Built in an eclectic mixture of architectural revival styles, it stands on the original site of the village of Inveraray - when Archibald Campbell decided to build the castle he had the village demolished and rebuilt a mile away, so that it would not impinge on the castle's outlook.

The castle was damaged by two major fires, in 1877 and 1975, but most of its important artefacts and features survived or have been restored. It contains outstanding furnishings and interiors from the 18th and 19th centuries. The elaborate decoration of the castle's State Dining Room, completed in 1784, is the only surviving work of the French painters Girard and Guinard, who were also commissioned by the then Prince of Wales (later George IV) to decorate his London residence, Carlton House. The Armoury Hall, which contains a display of wall-mounted weapons dating from around 1740, has the highest ceiling in Scotland (21 metres, or nearly 69 feet).

Inveraray Castle is the home of the current duke (Torquhil Campbell, 13th Duke of Argyll) and his family, but its distinctive appearance, beautiful interiors and attractive setting make it a popular tourist attraction, and it is open to visitors at certain times of the year.

My god this is taking me longer to write about than it took me to ride at times and this is one of those sections when it wasn’t the case, don’t get me wrong the A83 is wonderful coming down the A83 alongside Loch Fyne and in fact this day I enjoyed the experience so much I didn’t get too carried away. I will return to Lochgilphead in the following post as I was able to really enjoy it’s main feature, The Crinan Canal.

Just before reaching Lochilphead there is another castle however it is one of those faux 19th century affairs I have decided to ignore on this trip. However further down the road when I was becoming increasingly desperate for a fuel stop I entered Tarbert, a town with two sides having ferries going in opposite directions, to the East lies Portavadie and the mainland from the West and Kennacraig they run to Islay and Jura. It was then I came upon the following view whilst I was refueling.

Shortly after which I met an Italian couple on their BMW R1200GS Adventure that I would come across at various locations over the following three days. Also whilst in Tarbert I came across Castle (51) Tarbert Loch Fyne Royal Castle. Tarbert Castle was a strategic royal stronghold during the Middle Ages and one of three castles at Tarbert. The castle overlooks the harbour and although pre 14th century in construction, the tower dates back to 1494 and the visit of James IV to the Western Highlands.

In 712, Tarbert was burned by King Selbach mac Ferchair of Cenél Loairn and of Dál Riata and in 731 by his son, Dúngal mac Selbaig. King Edward II of England handed control of the castle to the Scottish King John II de Balliol in 1292. A fortified structure was built in Tarbert during the 13th century. It was reinforced with the addition of an outer bailey and towers in the 1320s by Robert the Bruce, to protect it against the Lords of the Isles. A towerhouse was added in the 16th century, which is the most noticeable part of the remains. The castle occupies high land above Loch Fyne, providing views up East Loch Tarbert and beyond to the Firth of Clyde. This castle was captured from John MacDonald by James IV of Scotland as part of his campaign to destroy the power of the Lords of the Isles. In 1685 the castle was involved in another skirmish when Walter Campbell of Skipness Castle seized it as a stronghold for the Clan Campbell.

There are only a couple of standing walls left and they are considered unstable. The castle has a very commanding view of the water approaches.

Skipness castle would be one of my last points on the mainland today as I headed towards Arran. After refueling I was off further down the A83 before turning off just after Kennacraig and on to the B8001 towards Skipness Castle and the ferry from Claonaig to Lochranza on Arran. The B8001 gave me my first view of Arran as I approached Glenreasdell Mains.

After which I had a quick run to Skipness Castle (52) and back to the ferry point at Claonaig. Skipness Castle was begun in the early 13th century, when Argyll was ruled not by Scotland but by Norway. The builder was probably either Suibhne (Sven) ‘the Red’, founder of Clan MacSween, or his son Dugald. By now, though, the writing was on the wall for Norway. In 1263, when Hakon IV was repulsed by the Scots at the Battle of Largs, he was compelled to return the Hebrides to Scotland. The MacSweens, having backed Hakon, were forced out of Knapdale and Kintyre.

By the end of that century, Skipness had passed to the MacDonalds of Islay and Kintyre. By now Scotland was at war with England. The MacDonalds initially supported the English, and it may have been with English support that they comprehensively rebuilt Skipness much as we see it today – a formidable curtain-walled enclosure, bristling with arrow slits.

The MacDonalds remained lords of Skipness until their downfall in 1493. Thereafter, the castle was held by the Campbell earls of Argyll. During their tenure the lofty tower house at the NE corner was built. By 1700 the castle was unoccupied.

The Ferry point at Claonaig is not a harbour just a basic ferry ramp, with a bus stop close by. But on this day what a setting! Whilst sitting there waiting I was able to watch a pod of Dolphins sweeping through The Sound, whilst I had the binoculars out doing that I was also able to watch the Gannets diving from a considerable height to catch fish from the same shoal the Dolphins were chasing, to be blunt it is absolutely jaw dropping to watch this live. Maybe from the next couple of photos you can just imagine.

And then all of a sudden there was the ferry that would take me across. I took advantage of the opportunity to take a number of photos on the way but wow! This was the best part of the whole 10 trip in my view. The Loch Tarbert is a 16 car Ferry that runs during the summer months between the mainland and Arran. The photo was taken just as it started to drop it’s bow ramp. It just doesn’t get much better than this, however just wait until you see the pictures from the crossing the following morning. Within minutes of leaving the ferry, I was at the campsite I had thought about using a guest house but after landing at Lochranza the Camping and Caravan Club authorised site at the nine hole golf course was literally minutes away, so I thought given the weather, what the hell!.

It turned out to be a great little campsite although the Polish Caretaker was a bit surly at being disturbed, having booked in I met another Africa Twin owner, Yves, he was over on tour from Germany and had just arrived the day before from the mianland. He was also planning to go off to Islay, Jura before Mull a couple of days later.

He became an instant hero after witnessing the modifications on his bike and even more so when he pulled a can of lager out of his tent. I do intend to carry out a couple of the mods, Yves had built into his bike.

After sorting out my tent and getting my stove going for my evening meal, it was time to educate Yves about the fearsome Highland Midge. Luckily I had some insect repellant, on top of which I have never suffer too badly with them, it is only when they go after my eyes and nostrils, the two parts that the spray won’t work.

Beyond the fence you can see in the photo above is the barrier to a stream where all the Midges were coming from at the same time it was an ideal cooler for my Milk bottle which I was able to tie to the fence before I threw it in.

Before turning in after another long day, I took a quick walk despite the bloody midges and too the following two photos of the two mountains, yes both were by 50-80 odd feet Torr Meadhonach and Torr Nead an Eoin.

To be blunt, it was a fabulous campsite and the weather this evening was wonderful, just a shame about the midges.

Take care and as Mick says ‘You don’t stop riding when you get old, you stop when you meet another Africa Twin Owner!!!